A working test-kitchen ledger of ten thousand recipes.
Fundamentals · June 7, 2026 · 5 min read

Salt, Early and Often

Seasoning in layers, not just at the end, is the difference between flat food and food that sings.

By Ray Stewart

Salt, Early and Often

The most common note in our test kitchen is simply: under-seasoned. Not because people are shy with the salt cellar at the table, but because they add it all at the end.

Season in layers

Salt the water, salt the onions as they soften, salt the protein before it hits the pan. Each layer seasons from the inside out.

Taste as you go

Keep a spoon by the stove and taste at every stage. Your palate is the only instrument that matters here.

Written in the Stewart & Musell test kitchen.

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